Making the Planting

The training system to be followed in strawberry planting determines the distance between rows and between plants in the row. Most home gardeners use the matted row. No effort is made to limit the number of runner plants, but they are kept within a row 18 to 24 inches wide. Plants of most varieties are usually set every 18 inches in rows 48 inches apart.

The other system is the spaced row. The number and location of runner plants is predetermined. The spaced row system requires much more labor than the matted row. It also requires setting more plants per unit area.

Early spring planting is best. Set plants as soon as the soil can be prepared, normally during late March and early April. Don't attempt to plant until the soil is dry enough to work. If plants can be maintained in a dormant condition and irrigation is available, planting can be delayed.

Before planting, remove all but two or three of the most vigorous leaves and prune away about a third of the roots. Place the plants in the soil so the roots are spread out. Cover the roots until the crown (where the leaves arise) is just above the soil surface. If the crowns are covered with soil, or the roots exposed, plants will do poorly and may die.

Hand planting can be done by a two-person team. One person forces a spade or long-handled shovel about 6 inches into the soil and pushes it forward to open the hole. The other inserts the plant to the proper depth and holds it against the side of the hole while the spade is removed. The one with the spade then closes the hole by inserting the spade in front of the hole and pushing forward on the handle. Soil about the roots is then firmed with the foot.

After setting, if the soil is dry, give each plant at least a cup of water. Regardless of the planting methods, make every effort to prevent the plants from drying out.

First Season Care

Remove flower stalks as they appear. If berries are allowed to develop, they will reduce plant growth, runnering, and next year's crop.

Carefully cultivate and hand hoe the planting throughout the season to control weeds. Frequent, shallow cultivation in one direction only is best. Infrequent, deep cultivation can damage strawberry plants.

Removal of flower clusters from new leaf set plants will increase future yields.

Cultivation helps keep runner plants within the allotted row area and permits easier rooting of runner plants. Don't allow the rows to get wider than 18 to 24 inches. Chemical herbicides may be used as an aid in weed control during this period. But for most garden plantings their use is not recommended because of problems in application.

Runner plants produced after August 15 are relatively unproductive and should be removed, unless the desired matted row has not been obtained.

Fertilizer applications are seldom needed during the growing season. But if the new plants appear light green and don't grow well, sidedress with nitrogen fertilizer about a month after planting. Apply 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row. When applying this fertilizer, select a dry day and brush all fertilizer off the leaves to protect them against fertilizer burn.

If the plants continue to have light green leaves, a similar application may be spread over the rows about August 1. Avoid getting fertilizer on the leaves.

Fertilizer applications in the spring of fruiting years are apt to cause soft berries and reduce yields.

Since too much nitrogen may cause excessive growth and reduce yields, exercise care in application rates.

Use irrigation and pest control practices as needed.

Winter Care

Mulch strawberry plantings in colder regions as a winter safeguard. A mulch protects plants from severe cold and against soil heaving caused by alternate freezing and thawing of the soil.

Top, mulching strawberries helps keep the fruit clean and conserves moisture. Above, strawberry bloom at frost-hazardous stage. If frost is predicted, remulch the planting until hazard passes.

The best mulching materials are clean, seed-free wheat or rye straw. Tree leaves and oat straw tend to pack and smother the plants. Coarser materials offer little protection. Sawdust may be used, but straw is preferred. Expose the straw to weather by placing it near the planting in early fall. Most of the grain and weed seeds will germinate before the mulch application, thus reducing a serious spring weed problem.

Apply mulch 3 to 4 inches deep over the plant rows. Do this only after the planting has experienced several sharp freezes in the lower 20 s. It is easier to apply mulch when the ground is frozen. When mulch is applied before growth stops, damage to the crowns could occur. If mulching is delayed, low temperatures could damage the crowns.

Mice sometimes will damage strawberry plants under the mulch. Check with your county Extension office for control methods.

In spring when new leaves begin to develop, fork the mulch off the plants, placing it between the rows. So placed, the mulch controls weed growth, conserves moisture, and helps keep the berries clean. Remove only enough mulch from the rows to let the plants develop.

Winter mulch may be re-used to protect flowers from frost. If frost is predicted, mulch can be spread evenly back over the rows. The mulch acts as an insulation barrier which traps radiant heat from the soil and holds it around the plants. Mulch can be left in place for several days, if necessary.

Harvesting

Harvest berries when they are fully colored; those with white areas are not ripe. Pick the berries with the caps and stems attached. To do this, snap the stem, using the thumbnail. Avoid bruising the berries. Keep harvested berries out of the sun and refrigerate as soon as possible. The first harvest generally can be made about 30 days after first bloom.

One advantage of growing your own strawberries is that they may be eaten at peak of quality.

If possible, avoid picking berries when the plants are wet. Harvest as often as necessary, about every other day. The harvest season of a given variety extends over 5 to 7 pickings. Harvesting is made easier by the use of "carriers" that hold 4 or 6 quart baskets.

Pick and remove berries damaged by birds, and any rotted berries.