Dwarf Trees

Dwarfing rootstocks are a beneficial innovation for the modern home orchardist, as well as for the commercial apple grower. Although dwarf trees are somewhat more expensive to buy, they are easier to prune, spray and harvest. They also begin to bear crops of fruit at a younger age than full-sized trees.

The fruit of Delicious, or any other variety, which is borne on a dwarf tree is just as large and otherwise identical with the fruits of Delicious borne on a full-sized tree. Dwarf rootstocks do not shorten tree life.

Dwarfing in apple and pear trees is caused by specific dwarfing rootstocks onto which common varieties are budded. Tree size at maturity depends on which rootstock is used. True dwarf trees grow to a height of about 10 feet when fully mature at 15 to 20 years of age.

The most dwarfed trees are propagated on Malling 9 or M.27 roots; semi-dwarf on M. 26 (12 feet), M. 7 (15 feet), or M.9/Malling-Merton 106 interstems; semi-vigorous on MM.106 or MM.111; and vigorous (30 feet high) on seedling roots.

An interstem tree, such as M.9/ MM.106, is one with strong growing, well-anchored MM.106 roots. By double budding, it has a 6-inch trunk section of the very dwarfing M.9 to produce a semidwarf tree. Finally, the variety is budded on the top.

Dwarf apple trees provide easy access to the fruit. They also bear fruit much quicker than standard trees.

Pear trees are dwarfed by growing them on quince roots with an inter stem of Old Home to overcome the graft incompatibility which exists between Bartlett and quince.

Tree size also is influenced by the inherent varietal vigor, soil fertility, severity of pruning, and several other factors. For example, on a given rootstock, Cortland grows into a larger tree than Golden Delicious or Rome Beauty. Also, nonspur Delicious and McIntosh will grow into bigger trees than spur type Delicious and McIntosh. Spur varieties are mutations which grow into compact trees that are smaller than normal and usually more desirable for the home orchard.

Buying the proper tree from a reliable, local nursery is one of the most critical decisions in the successful growing of fruit in the home orchard. Nursery catalogs contain much information about varieties and planting tips; study them carefully before buying. Medium-sized, 1-year-old trees are preferred to 2- or 3-year-old trees.

Do not attempt to grow fruit trees from seed, they do not come true to variety. Trees from seeds produce very small, poor quality fruits.

Trees with five varieties on one tree can be grown, but they are not recommended because the different varieties will grow unequally, making tree shaping difficult.

Order from the nursery the precise variety/rootstock combination you want. Do not buy a tree which is called "dwarf"; the specific rootstock should be identified.

Spacing between trees in the orchard will depend on such factors as how much land is available, vigor of the variety, rootstock vigor, soil fertility, and drainage.

Planting of fruit trees in the northeastern United States should be done as early as possible as soon as the land is dry enough to work in the very early spring. Fall planting is risky because it may result in winter injury to the trees, but in warmer regions, fall planting is practical.

As soon as the trees are received, they should be unwrapped. The roots should be kept moist and above freezing. If the planting site is not ready, dig a temporary hole in the garden and heel-in the roots in moist soil in a shady spot. Trees should be planted while still dormant, or at the latest, before much leaf growth occurs.

Fruit trees require full sunlight and should not be planted in the shade of a building or large tree. The orchard area should be plowed and the soil disked before planting. Prune off damaged, broken, diseased or dead roots. Cut off the tips of excessively long roots so they are no more than 15 inches long. Usually very little root pruning is needed. Dig a large hole a foot or more deep and wide enough to contain the roots without crowding when they are extended in their natural position. Do not put fresh manure in the hole.

Depth of the hole is important and must be adjusted according to special needs of each tree. If the roots have been budded onto size-controlling rootstocks such as M.9, it is essential that the scion be above the surface of the ground. The bud union is the point at which the scion variety bud had been inserted into the rootstock and there usually is a small crook at this point. Dwarf trees are budded high in the nursery (14 inches) so they can be planted deep for good anchorage.

Put the topsoil into the bottom of the hole. Do not use grass sod to fill the hole. Bring in good soil from another part of the garden if necessary. Tramp hard with the heel of your boot to firmly pack the soil. Pour on a pail of water just after planting. No fertilizer is applied at planting time, nor during the first summer.

Any labels attached to the tree must be removed at planting, as the wire or string will girdle the trunk after growth begins.

Just after planting, cut off the top of the tree at a height of 30 inches. If there are several side branches, remove half of them to balance the root loss.

You need to stake dwarf apple trees because they have poor anchorage due to their brittle roots; heavy fruit crops will topple them. They need support throughout their lifetimes. Semidwarf trees may also require staking. Semivigorous and vigorous trees will stand alone without staking.

Just after planting a dwarf tree, a 2 x 2 inch stake, 4 feet long, is driven 2 feet into the ground at a distance of about 6 inches from the tree trunk. The tree is supported by tying it to the top of the stake with a strip of cloth. As the tree grows, the tie must be loosened so that it does not girdle the tree.