Root crops are relatively efficient as good producers for the space occupied. Twenty feet of row of each crop should produce an adequate quantity for a family of 4. Radishes, however, should be planted in short rows, preferably no more than 3 to 6 feet long, at weekly intervals. This will provide a steady supply of radishes throughout the season. Turnips also have a shorter life than most root crops and are best planted several times during the season.

The root crops are moderately high in vitamin C, with carrots an excellent source of vitamin A.

Root crops in Oregon. Bottom, Sakurijima Japanese radish left overwinter. Top, three types of beets, Cylindra type, Crosby's Flat Egyptian type, and globe type, dug from garden in February. Bottom, American Purple Middle, rutabagas in garden in February.

Notes on individual crops follow:

BEETS

BEETS (Beta vulgaris) Somewhat more susceptible to foliage diseases than the other root crops, and less tolerant of drought or low fertility than some, beets are still a relatively easy crop to grow.

Quality factors are not critical and although there may be a preference for small roots for whole pickles, beets are edible over a wide range of maturity. Young roots are more intense in color, with less conspicuous light colored rings, more tender and finer textured.

Choice of varieties for gardens is not critical because a number of good ones of equal quality are available. However, if downy mildew is a problem, then look in seed catalogs for resistant varieties such as strains of popular Detroit Dark Red. Red beets are traditionally the most popular, but other types such as golden and white are also available. All have about the same potential flavor and quality.

CELERIAC

CELERIAC (Apium graveolens, var. rapaceum) A variant of common celery, celeriac produces heavy roots somewhat like a rutabaga in appearance. It is used raw in salads, pickled, or cooked in soups and stews. Good culture requires plenty of water and fertility and a long growing season. The use of transplants started indoors 10 weeks prior to outdoor planting time is superior over direct seeding.

Celeriac roots are used when they reach 2 to 3 inches in diameter, but have a long period of use and can be stored with success. Few varieties are available.

CARROTS

CARROTS (Daucus caroto L.) Because of its nutritional value, bright orange color for the table, productivity, storage life and ease of culture, the carrot is a garden favorite.

If a problem is encountered with carrots, it is often failure to get a stand of seedlings. Carrots can not tolerate either deep planting or a dry seed bed, so the trick is to manage shallow planting with a continuously moist soil. Seeding at 1/4-inch depth with a light mulch of sawdust and daily sprinkling is usually successful. If frequent, light irrigation is not possible, use a slightly deeper planting depth (to 1/2 inch).

Carrots are well adapted to culture in a wide row or bed instead of a single row. Seedlings should be thinned initially if there is not open space around each plant. Harvest of seedlings can begin when they are finer-size and continue through what will appear an inexhaustible supply, because the more the roots are pulled out, the larger the remaining ones will become.

Choose varieties to suit soil conditions. If the soil is deep and friable, any variety will do well and the very long market types such as Imperator or similar F, hybrids may be preferred. In heavy, impermeable soil, it is best to grow the shorter types such as the very adaptable Red Cored Chantenay, or even the stubby Ox-heart. Nantes is a medium-long type which is tender and of good flavor, but susceptible to cracking and rotting in fall and generally not culturally rugged.