Pest Control

Cultivate frequently from planting time on, to destroy weeds in the seedling stages. When the plants first emerge, rake lightly over the row as well as between rows. All cultivation should be shallow-2 inches or less to prevent pruning the potato roots near the surface. Hill or ridge the soil over the rows only if the tubers become exposed. This will help prevent sunburn and frost damage. Cease all cultivation when the vines fill in between the rows.

A pre-emergence weed killer is registered for use in many vegetable crops, including potatoes. When used according to label directions, it is very good for control of annual broad-leaved weeds and grasses. Another herbicide applied to the garden in the fall after harvest is an excellent treatment for quackgrass. It is not selective but will kill perennial grasses when applied as directed on the label. Plowing or rototilling can be deferred until spring with no residual effect on potatoes or other vegetables to be planted in the treated area.

Numerous insect and disease pests may attack potatoes. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Use certified seed as a fundamental step in disease control. Practicing a 3-to 4-year rotation in the garden will help prevent both insect and disease problems.

Soil insects troublesome to potatoes are white grubs, wireworms and cutworms. Most garden soil insecticides give satisfactory control.

You can control leaf-feeding insects like the Colorado potato beetle and the flea beetle with recommended chemicals. Control leaf-sucking insects like leaf hoppers and aphids with a contact insecticide.

Flea beetle that causes damage to many garden plants is not much larger than a flea and jumps like one when disturbed.

Prevent foliage diseases such as late blight and early blight by applying recommended fungicides every 7 to 10 days according to label directions. Several new materials are available for disease control. Soil-borne diseases such as scab and verticillium wilt may be reduced by growing resistant varieties and following a good rotation.

Any damage to potato plants by insects, disease or other causes will result in an abnormal crop of poor quality. The better the plant growth, the better the crop of potatoes.

Harvest, Storage

Potatoes may be harvested once the tubers are large enough. As long as the vines remain alive, the size of the potatoes and the yield will continue to increase. When the vines are completely dead and the skin ceases to slip from pressure by the thumb, the potatoes can be dug with a spading fork or plow.

Avoid bruises or other injuries such as cuts and fork holes in digging and handling. Do not expose the freshly- dug potatoes to sun or wind as they are very susceptible to scald and sunburn at that time. Potatoes have a sweating period the first two weeks after harvest. During this time they should be kept in a place where the temperature is about 65 F (18 C) and the relative humidity at 85% to 95%. This will help the healing-over of any injuries or wounds in harvest.

Sort over the potatoes and place only the best, sound tubers in bins or containers for winter storage. Store them dry in a room that can be kept at a temperature of 35 to 40 F (2 to 5 C) and a moderate humidity. Under these conditions well-matured tubers will keep in good condition for 7 to 8 months. Above 40 F (5 C) they may keep for 2 to 3 months but sprouting and shriveling may occur.

Harvesting potatoes in the home garden "it's a good feeling."

Sprout-inhibiting chemicals are available under various trade names from garden supply stores. A common type is applied to the vines according to label directions during the growing season. The harvested tubers are safe for table use and they will not sprout when kept at higher storage temperatures such as found in a modern basement room.

Potatoes are very sensitive to light, which causes green pigment to develop under the skin in the flesh of the tuber. This will make them bitter and unfit for table use. Tubers that have an excessive amount of greening should be discarded. If greening is only slight the affected area can be peeled away before use. Always keep potatoes in a place with total darkness to avoid greening in storage.

If the temperature in the storage room reaches 32 F (0 C), the potatoes often become sweet. Increasing the temperature for a few days will cause the sugar to revert to starch and good table quality will be restored.

Some people have developed the erroneous idea that potatoes are fattening, but studies show this is not true. Potatoes are less fattening pound for pound than most foods in the daily American diet. The potato alone is comparatively low in calories per pound, but when fried or served with a lot of butter or sour cream the caloric intake may be high. French fried potatoes have about five times the caloric value as the same weight of mashed potatoes.

Besides being a good source of food energy, the potato is also a source of iron, thiamin, niacin, and vitamin C.

A few rows of potatoes in the home garden properly planted and well cared for should provide satisfaction and achievement as well as some nutritious food to enjoy at your table.