Onions From Transplants

Transplanting of young onion plants is an increasingly popular method for home gardeners because of the large size bulb produced. Plants may be obtained from your seed dealer and garden supplier. In the South and Southwest plant in fall, and in the North in early spring. To produce large dry onions, plant 4 to 5 inches apart in the row, with rows 12 to 24 inches apart. Closer spacing yields smaller size bulbs. Fertile, loose soil is essential.

Transplants are put in soil to a depth of 1 to 1 1/2 inches and covered. Many growers use a special water-soluble fertilizer mixture immediately on planting.

This transplant fertilizer is in addition to the normal fertilizing of the garden and the necessary side-dressing discussed earlier. To prepare a water fertilizer mixture, buy a soluble fertilizer, 10-50-10, 10-52-17, or similar analysis. Dissolve one tablespoon in a gallon of water and apply at the rate of 1 cup per plant.

Crystal Wax, Bermudas, and Grano types are used in the South for fall planting. In the North, Bermudas are used when flat bulbs are desired. For large round bulbs use standard or hybrid Sweet Spanish (white or yellow). If red onions are preferred, varieties like Red Bermudas, Red Giant, Red Hamburger, and Benny's Red are used in the North, while Early Red or Creole are suitable for the South.

Special onions include the Egyptian onion or tree onion, a perennial planted in fall throughout the country. This onion forms small bulblets or sets where the flowers normally grow. It may be harvested, planted and used in the same manner as sets.

Hanging onions for curing.

In late winter or early spring, Egyptian onions may be pulled and used as green onions. Those left unharvested will produce new sets for future planting. If you choose, the plants also may be dug, divided, and replanted for additional propagation. Planting material, either sets or plants, are hard to get through normal channels and often gardeners obtain their starts from friends.

The Potato or Multiplier onion seldom produces seed and is propagated by bulb division. These onions are planted in the same manner as sets, usually 2 to 3 inches apart. The original bulb splits into segments; when dry, they may be used to plant as sets.

In the South, multiplier sets are planted in fall and used as green onions in spring. In the North, they are planted early in spring.

True multipliers also are hard to get at most gardening centers, and like the Egyptian onion frequently are passed from gardener to gardener.

Many homeowners do not have proper conditions to store onions for long periods; however, they usually can make out all right for three to four months. After half of the tops have broken over naturally at the neck, the onions may be pulled. When the tops have wilted, cut them off 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the bulb.

Cure by placing in an open crate or mesh bag. This process, which prepares the onions for storage, takes from two to a few weeks depending on humidity. Clean by removing dirt and outer loose dry skins that come off when handling.

The cleaned onion may be left in a mesh bag and hung in a place such as a garage ceiling. An ideal storage spot is dry with air temperatures of 35 to 50 F. If roots reappear, the conditions are too moist, and if sprouts appear the temperature is too high; either will cause rotting and deterioration of bulbs.

The storage period is shorter for Sweet Spanish and Bermudas than for small globe-type onions.