Onions Are Finicky as to Growing, Curing; And Garlic May Not Be a Joy Either

by T. S. Vandemark.

J. S. Vandemark is Vegetable Crop Specialist, University of Illinois, Urbana.

Onions are grown in nearly every part of the United States. Fairly cool temperatures are important during early development, and good soil fertility and adequate moisture are essential. High temperatures help during bulbing and curing. Low humidity is desirable for curing.

Domesticated in Asia and the Middle East, onions were rapidly moved to Europe. They were grown both by the settlers and Indians after being brought to North America by Spanish explorers.

Onions are used in a variety of forms. They are eaten raw, as scallions, and in salads. Cooked onions are served broiled, boiled, baked, creamed, steamed, fried, french fried, pickled, in soups and stews, and in combinations with other vegetables and meats.

Growers learned from experience that the early development period of onions should be cool and damp to allow secondary roots to develop.

Soil fertilization should be given particular attention. Onions require about twice as much fertilizer as most vegetables. Gardeners may find it advantageous to give the row a second feeding after 40 to 60 days by placing the fertilizer in a trench 1 to 2 inches deep and 3 inches to one side of the row. Use 10-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of 1 pound per 25 or 30 feet of row for this side-dressing.

Good growth requires a loose, friable (crumbly), fertile soil. Hard compact soils tend to restrain bulb development, causing the bulb to be irregularly shaped and small.

Proper time to plant depends on the area. In the South, onions are grown in winter, from seeds, sets or seedlings that were fall-planted. In Northern and Central regions, onions are planted in spring as early as the soil can be prepared. Onions are tolerant to frosts. Seeds germinate best about 60 to 65 F; however, satisfactory results will be obtained anywhere from 50 to 75 soil temperature.

Onions must be kept free of weeds and grasses throughout the entire season as they compete poorly with other plants.

Onions From Sets

Onion sets are the surest route to success in the home vegetable garden as the emerging plant will be vigorous and strong. They may serve double duty, producing green onions or mature dry onions. Onion sets, which you can buy, consist of small dry onions up to 3/4 inch in diameter grown the previous year specifically for starting plants.

Select sets early when they are firm and dormant. While it seems contradictory, round onion sets produce flat onions, while elongated or tapered sets mature into round onions. Sets are available in three colors: White, red or brown. Most gardeners prefer white sets for producing green onions or scallions; but the other two colors are acceptable.

Divide the sets into two groups, those smaller in diameter than a dime and those larger than a dime. Use large size sets for green onions; the large size may bolt (form flower stalks) and not produce a good dry bulb.

Plant the small size set for dry onion production as there is little chance of bolting. These small sets will best produce large, dry bulbs.

For dry onions, plant the sets to a depth of 1 inch in rows 12 to 14 inches apart, with the sets 2 inches apart. Soil should be worked to a medium fine condition, fertilized, and kept free of weeds throughout the season.

When you observe half or more of the tops bent over naturally, the onions may be pulled and allowed to dry. Do not break onion stems early as this interrupts their natural growth period and will result in reducing the bulb size. Onions can be eaten at any point between green onions and mature dry onions.

When planting larger size bulbs for green onions, use 12- to 24-inch wide rows. Sets can be planted close enough to touch each other and 1 1/2 inches deep. If you hill the row slightly after the stem is up 4 inches, the green onions will have longer usable white stems. Once the tops are 6 inches high you can start using them as green onions.

Green onions become stronger in flavor as they get older. When too strong to eat raw, they are excellent for cooking.

If you notice a plant producing a flower stalk (bolting), pull and use it.

Seed is the least popular method of growing, as a longer period for development is needed. Onion seed should be planted at the same time as sets and requires similar fertilization. To assure a good stand, plant seed 3/4 to 1 inch deep, at a rate of 1 to 5 seeds per inch. When the seedlings are established they should be thinned: For large dry onions 2 to 3 inches apart, for medium sized 1 to 2 inches, and for boilers and green onions, 1/4 to 1 inch.

Choose varieties adapted to your purpose and section of the country. Green onion varieties from seed include Evergreen Bunching, Beltsville Bunching and Southport Bunching. Varieties for dry onions produced in the South include Crystal Wax, Excel,

Texas Grano, and Granex. In the North suitable varieties are Early Yellow Globe, Empire, Fiesta, Downing Yellow Globe, Spartan lines, and Nutmeg.