Planting in Hills

Seed of the vine crops cucumbers, cantaloupes, pumpkins, squash and watermelons are often planted in "hills". Several seeds are planted at each planting site with the sites a few feet apart. After the seedlings are up, they are thinned to two or three in each "hill". Mixing a shovelful of stable manure or compost in each hill improves growth and yield of these crops substantially. The soil at each hill may be mounded or raised somewhat or it may be left nearly level with the rest of the area.

Some vegetable crops such as broccoli, cabbage, eggplant, pepper, and tomatoes are started in hot beds or greenhouses and transplanted to the garden in order to provide earlier maturity. If plants are grown in individual pots or other containers there is little or no shock or injury from transplanting. If plants are not in individual containers, transplanting will cause less injury if plants are removed from the plant bed with a ball of soil around the roots.

Dig plants from plant bed and plant in the garden immediately. Stretch string tightly along row in well prepared soil. Open holes at proper distances with a trowel, bulb planter, or mattock. Set the transplants a little deeper than they were in plant bed. Fill soil around roots, firming slightly.

Add 1/2 to 1 cup of water or starter solution around each plant to moisten and settle soil around roots. After the water soaks in, rake dry soil around plants to level and cover wet area. Some gardeners may prefer to form a slight mound of soil in a ring around new transplants and add water after transplanting.

Planting Chart for Vegetables

A paper cylinder wrapped around the stem extending from just below the soil to about two inches above will discourage cutworms.

Cucumbers, squash, and cantaloupes will mature earlier if grown in peat pots or other individual containers and transplanted with an intact ball of soil around the roots. They are easily injured and may not survive transplanting as bare rooted plants, however.

Set plants in late afternoon or on a cloudy day. Plants set during the heat of the day will wilt badly. Shading for a few days during hot weather helps the plant become established. To prevent cold injury to transplants in early spring, protect plants with hotcaps, plastic row covers, baskets, or other available material. Covers should be removed or opened for ventilation on bright, sunny days.

Windbreaks may improve survival of transplants in cold weather of early spring or in summer heat. Unplowed strips of a small grain like rye give protection from cold winds and blowing sand in the spring. Short branches of trees or privet hedge stuck into the soil near rows of midsummer transplants provide shade and protection from hot drying winds.