Major disadvantage of the fluorescent lamp is that the light decreases as the lamps age, so a lamp lighted for 8,000 hours may give less than half the light of a new one. For growing plants they should be replaced before that time.

Incandescent lamps are the ones commonly used around the home. They are easy to install and the least expensive. However, they have a low efficiency and a short operating life (1,000 hours).

Fluorescent light is broad spectrum, operates cooler, and has greater light intensity so it is better suited for plant lighting. Incandescent light is in the red and far red portion of the spectrum which triggers certain plant processes; it can be used to supplement fluorescent lamps.

Continuous light can be used for most seedlings for the first 2 and 3 weeks, but then the young plants should have a dark period of 4 to 8 hours per day. The best way to control the lighting period is with a 24-hour time clock.

Air and soil temperatures are important factors in germination. A heating cable with thermostat is one way to maintain the soil temperature at a desired 70 to 75 F. The presence of lamps helps keep the soil warm.

As the plants get older, the temperature should gradually be reduced so the temperature change at transplanting outdoors will not be too great. Young seedlings will grow tall and spindly in high air temperatures and poor light.

Rapid growth is encouraged by high humidity and good soil moisture. Watering or misting frequently can meet these requirements.

Most garden supply houses have fairly simple and inexpensive watering systems. Typically, a time clock is used to control a small solenoid valve which turns the water on and off automatically. A misting system requires a time clock which permits 6 seconds of mist each 6 minutes, as an example. Lamps must be protected from the water.

Carbon dioxide is another important factor for good growth. If a small fan is used to move the lamp heat away, it will also keep fresh carbon dioxide moving in contact with the plant leaves. Direct a gentle breeze of air over the plants.

Trellis provides support for vine plants as well as decorative touch.

While these environmental factors are needed to achieve the best growth, success also depends on use of high-quality seed and stock plants, a suitable growing medium, and simultaneous control of all environmental factors. The growing medium must provide good moisture conditions, a high nutrient level, and proper aeration.

Your imagination is the limit on using fences, trellises, and other structures to support plants. One person grew squash in a small 8- by 15-foot garden by getting the vines to grow up a 6-foot wooden fence. The vines were partially supported by string. The string was first tied tightly around vertical boards of the fence, and then the ends were tied loosely around the squash vines.

Tomatoes can be tied up to stakes. Peas and beans can grow on a fence made of several strands of string attached to closely spaced stakes. Cucumbers and other vines can grow on a trellis made by nailing wood strips on stakes driven into the ground. Varieties of fruit trees are adaptable to trellis arrangements and can be used as a hedgerow in the landscape.

The plant support structure can be functional to create additional garden space in a crowded area, or it can be decorative and express creativeness in the landscape design if done properly.

In windy areas, take steps to protect the vegetable or fruit plantings from damage. Wind can cause structural damage, and windborne soil particles can injure leaves. An 80 percent solid fence near the planting will give good wind protection. Buildings, hedges, and trees afford wind protection if the garden can be located to take advantage of it.

For long range protection, plant short and tall trees, hedges, and shrubs on the windward side. A good tree windbreak reduces wind velocities for 10 to 30 tree heights downwind and for 5 to 10 tree heights upwind. Give consideration to both summer and winter wind directions and to the resultant winter snow drifts.

Equipment Storage

Gardening requires an investment in tools, fertilizers, pesticides, sprayers, seeds, stakes, and numerous other items. Amount of the investment depends on how much you wish to spend and the size of your garden. Hand-operated equipment will be less expensive than powered units.

A clean, dry place is needed to keep tools, treated seeds, fertilizer, and pesticides out of reach of children and pets. A safe, lockable cabinet in a dry, well-ventilated location would be ideal for keeping harmful tools and chemicals away from children. This is a simple safety requirement but is often disregarded.

Tools and leftover supplies should be prepared for storage in fall unless a label indicates a chemical should not be stored for another season. Hand tools can be washed to remove dirt particles. After they dry, apply a light coat of oil with a cloth to protect against rusting.

Clean up your power equipment according to the manufacturer's directions. Gasoline engines should have the gas drained, the oil drained and replaced with new oil, and a small amount of oil put into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole. With the sparkplug removed, turn the engine over by hand so the cylinder walls are lubricated.

A light coat of oil can be put on parts which contact the soil when in use; other bare metal should be painted if the original paint has been damaged. Properly maintained equipment will give many years of service.

The modern home differs from homes of earlier generations when people produced much of their own food and stored it for winter use in root or storm cellars, attics, closets, cellar shelves, and even in the garden. Today we use a minimum of a refrigerator/freezer and kitchen shelves to store our food supply. Of course, the "old ways" are not gone and are being revived as more people grow their own food and seek to preserve it.

Specific details on harvesting maturity and storage requirements can be found in other chapters. In general, note that well matured, good-quality vegetables or fruits are the first requirement. The storage space must have proper moisture and temperature conditions. Frequent sorting and removal of decayed produce is essential.

Providing the proper conditions for all items may not be easy, and storage planning must be done before the harvest season. As an example of the varied conditions required, here are three groups and their needs: warm dry for squash and pumpkin; cool dry for onions and dried peas and beans; and cool moist for root crops, potatoes, cabbage, and apples.

Warm dry storage conditions are 50 to 70 percent relative humidity and 40 to 50 F temperatures. These conditions can be provided in a room not heated for family use but having minimum heat to maintain the cool environment in areas of extreme temperature.

Cool dry storage means 25 to 32 F and 70 to 75 percent humidity. Unheated attics or closets or even a garage may be used. An old freezer or refrigerator may be adapted to provide these conditions in warmer areas.

Cool moist storage calls for temperatures of 32 to 40 F and high humidity. This is difficult to obtain in a home. An insulated room in a basement can be vented to the outside for cooling. The insulation protects stored produce from basement heat and outside frost. Ventilation is used to drop the temperature in fall and to hold the temperature in winter. Outside air is brought in when it is cooler than inside air. A fan and thermostat arrangement can be used to automate the temperature control. Humidity is maintained by sprinkling the floor frequently with water.

Carrots, beets, rutabagas, turnips, and parsnips, for example, need high humidity to reduce shriveling. These vegetables can be stored in containers or buried in sand and covered with moist burlap or cloth to keep the air moist. Parsnips can be left in the ground over winter and dug in spring before they start to grow.

Excess fresh fruit and vegetables can be stored, but unless you have sufficient quantities to justify setting aside a room, building a special room, or buying a used refrigerator or storage unit, the expenses may be greater than the benefit. Be careful to evaluate the savings in the supermarket versus the cost of the investment in facilities and their operating cost at home.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has made up plans for various types of garden structures. Some of these can be obtained through your county Extension office. The office has additional publications available and can answer specific questions.

Plans are available from the Extension Agricultural Engineer at your State land grant university if the county Extension office does not have them. The county Extension agent can request the plans for you.