Compost

Compost is a relatively fine, homogeneous organic material secured from the decomposition of various types of plant refuse such as leaves, lawn clippings, weeds, old vegetable plants, and garbage. The composting process reduces the volume of the plant material to a third or less of its original amount, and usually destroys the viability of any weed seeds which may be present.

Top, using soil-compost mixture under and around plants. Above, you don't need big backyard to have a compost bin. Here, city apartment resident improvised by using cinder blocks and part of roof structure.

Composted humus material is particularly useful for making soil mixtures for the production of seedling plants for the vegetable garden. Compost is also useful as a mulch when more plant refuse is available than can be used as a mulch in its fresh or undecomposed condition.

If you make compost regularly, it will be helpful to construct 2 long bins of planks or concrete blocks. Make the bins about 4 feet wide, 4 feet high, as long as desired, and open at one end. Plant refuse may be accumulated in one, while the composting process is taking place in the other.

Composting is a disintegration process caused by bacteria and fungus organisms. This results in a considerable reduction in bulk, which may be helpful if you have large amounts of organic refuse and a relatively small garden. There is usually no objectionable odor during the process when layers of soil are added to the pile. If the compost is thoroughly decayed, there is little possibility of disease or insect problems from using it.

Start the compost pile with a 6-inch layer of plant material. Coarse plants such as corn stalks should be cut into pieces about 8 inches long. Sprinkle with 1 pint of 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 fertilizer per square yard of pile. If you prefer to use an organic fertilizer, scatter 5 pounds of 1-1-1 dried manure on each layer of organic material. If an alkaline compost is desired, add 1 pint of ground limestone per square yard of surface area. Add a layer of soil about 1 inch thick.

Repeat as many layers of plant material, fertilizer, and soil as needed to use all available plant refuse. The top should be lower in the center to cause water to move in rather than drain off.

Layering of a compost pile.

Water the pile as often as necessary to maintain a relatively high moisture content, promoting decomposition. The pile should be forked over after about 3 months. The plant materials should decompose into good compost in about 4 to 5 months in warm weather, but may take longer under cool or dry conditions. It is not necessary to use bacteria pills or other substances to increase the rate or effectiveness of the decomposition process.

A plastic trash bag may be used to make a small quantity of compost from relatively fine material such as leaves, lawn clippings, or chopped garden refuse. Make layers of plant trash, fertilizer, and soil as in a compost pile. Add 2 quarts of water to dry material, and 1 quart if it is quite moist or succulent. Tie the bag and turn every few weeks to cause the moisture to move back and forth through the organic material.

Reducing Pesticide Needs

The homeowner who wishes to follow organic methods exclusively can have a more rewarding garden by planting only those crops which are not susceptible to damage by pests, or by selecting resistant varieties. The latter are usually described in seed catalogs, and information on them is available from your county Extension office. There is no conclusive evidence to indicate that crops grown organically are more resistant to pest damage than similar vigorously growing crops which have received commercial fertilizer.

Although some vegetables may be severely damaged by diseases or insects, many types can be grown successfully without the use of pesticides. Some of the best crops for the home garden are asparagus, beets, carrots, celery, Swiss chard, collards, cress, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsley, parsnips, peas, peppers, radishes, salsify, spinach, sweet potatoes, turnips and watermelon.

They may of course be damaged by diseases or insects in some seasons but, by planting only these vegetables, you can usually have a productive garden with little or no spraying. When soil insects are troublesome, and the gardener is unwilling to use synthetic pesticides, it may be wise to avoid growing certain root crops.

All home gardeners should be concerned about the use of pesticides. Some of these materials are more hazardous than others and their use should be limited to those crops which would otherwise be severely damaged by diseases or insects. A good rule to follow is to use the least toxic pesticide that will do the job.

Several non-hazardous organic or biodegradable pesticides are available for the home gardener. Our remarks here concern mechanical and biological controls.

Aphids occasionally are a serious pest on some garden plants. Lady beetles, available from many organic gardening supply houses, can be released to feed on aphids, but there is a chance of only temporary control because they may soon leave the area.

Cutworms often destroy certain vegetables in the garden. Newly set cabbages, tomatoes, and other plants may be protected with a cardboard collar which encircles the plant a half inch out from the stem, extending an inch into the ground and 2 inches above.

Slugs may cause damage, especially in a mulched garden, which provides excellent living conditions for this pest. A ring of wood ashes or sharp sand around plants helps control slugs. Also, shallow aluminum pans sunk into the ground with the rim level with the soil and filled with beer will attract and kill slugs. They drown in the liquid.

Bacillus thuringiensis is a bacterial disease effective against the larvae of a number of moths and butterflies. It is useful for controlling cabbage loopers on broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards and kale.

Sweet corn may be damaged by borers in the ears, but this is usually confined to the tip, which can be cut away when the corn is prepared for cooking. Also, there will be less trouble if you select some of the new hybrid varieties with tight husks. All damage by corn borers can be prevented by treating the silk with mineral oil before it turns brown. This is a harmless organic compound.

Beans may be severely damaged by Mexican bean beetles unless the pest is controlled with insecticides.

Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower may become inedible because of cabbage loopers. Use of Bacillus thuringiensis is an effective, non-pesticide method of controlling this insect.

Pumpkin and squash vines may be killed by squash bugs and vine borers. They may be controlled with a pesticide.

Cucumber varieties such as Gemini and Victory, which are resistant to several diseases, may be grown quite successfully without spraying unless cucumber beetles become a problem. A pesticide will control the beetles.

Eggplant is very difficult to raise in most gardens unless the plants are sprayed with a pesticide to control flea beetles and Colorado potato beetles.

Many potato varieties are severely damaged by mosaic and late blight. Kennebec is resistant to these diseases, but may need a pesticide spray if potato beetles become a problem.

Tomato varieties are available which are resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilt and nematodes. Such varieties should be selected for the home garden. The plants may need to be sprayed to control blight.