End of One Season Is Start of Another

by Charles W. Marr.

Charles W. Marr is Extension Horticulturist, Vegetable Crops, Kansas State University, Manhattan.

The end of the growing season is not a time to forget about gardening activities until next year, but rather when you should carry out several good practices that keep a successful gardener busy throughout the year.

First, as soon as any crop is harvested or killed by the first frost, the remaining crop residue should be removed or tilled into the soil. Not only does this improve the garden's appearance, but it reduces disease or insect problems that may build up in the residue. Sanitation is the first defense against many common pest headaches.

If a serious disease or insect problem was present through the season, remove residue of the affected crop from the garden and destroy it. Other crop residue can then be tilled directly into the soil, but many gardeners collect these materials in a compost heap.

Compost is a mixture of soil and decayed organic material or humus that is used as a source of plant nutrients and as a soil conditioner. As the organic materials are decomposed by various soil fungi and bacteria, the plant nutrients are "released" and the rich, dark humus provides porosity and tilth to garden soils.

In most compost "heaps", alternating layers of organic materials and soil (with some garden fertilizer added) are piled together, allowed to stand for several months with periodic mixing, and used as needed as mulch or for tilling into the soil. The soil and fertilizer serve as a source of innoculant of the various bacteria and fungi and provide nutrients for their initial growth. Several "activators" available commercially provide the same function as the soil and fertilizer.

Around the home, materials that can be used to make compost include grass clippings, leaves, garden residues, weeds, and table scraps (be careful these do not attract pets or animals to dig in the compost pile). In many areas farm manures, sawdust, shells or pods, or other organic industrial wastes may be available free or at low cost.

If properly prepared, the compost pile will become hot during the decomposition process and kill harmful plant diseases, insects, or weed seeds. However, using garden refuse as a source of organic matter is advisable only for the experienced compost maker. For the novice, it may be wise to destroy plants with serious disease or insect problems rather than run the risk of spreading these through improperly prepared compost.

County Extension offices, garden manuals or books, and commercial dealers are possible sources for detailed information on making compost. Composting is an excellent gardening practice and further reading on this subject will improve your composting skills.

The importance of cleaning up at the end of the season is often overlooked as an important step in successful garden management.

Planting cover crops after the garden cleanup offers several advantages. In areas where strong winds may erode soil from the bare garden in winter, cover crops help hold the soil in place. Secondly, plowing under the green cover crop in spring provides organic matter. Properly grown cover crops may contain 1 to 2 percent nitrogen, 1/2 to 3/4 percent phosphorus, and 3 to 5 percent potash making them equivalent to several low-analysis fertilizer materials.

The stage of maturity of the cover crops and the initial soil fertility level will influence the actual amounts of nutrients added to garden soils. Cover crops offer potential for important nutrient sources as well as improving the tilth and porosity of garden soils. However, many gardeners who use the garden space for fall gardening late in the year may not be able to use cover crops successfully.

Cover crops should be sown in those special instances where blowing soil is a problem, and where garden cropping patterns do not interfere with the cover crop planting. Probably the most common cover crops are annual ryegrass (1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet) or rye (3 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet), although oats, barley, or various legume crops may be used. In early spring the succulent green growth can be tilled under, and it will decompose quickly.

In areas where strong spring winds can cause damage to emerging seedling plants, gardeners can till strips in the cover crops for planting, giving wind protection to the newly seeded rows. The row centers can then be tilled later in the year.

Another way of protecting gardens from strong winter winds and reducing water use during summer months is development of a shelter-belt or windscreen on the west and north side of the garden. Trees used in windbreak plantings will compete with garden crops for water and nutrients, so there should be a space between the garden and the windbreak.

Once brilliance of autumn has faded leaves can be composted for use as mulch in next season's garden. Photos show compost containers. Rectangular wood-frame container, small and suitable for city gardeners.

Many gardeners use either temporary windbreaks or garden crops planted as windbreaks. A temporary fence or barrier such as bales of straw or old hay can be installed for protection from winter, spring, or summer winds. In addition, rows of tall, hardy crops such as sweet corn, okra, or tomatoes in cages will provide wind protection for tender crops that are planted nearby. In the Midwest, asparagus frequently is planted along the garden's west or north side. The fern makes an excellent summer windbreak and will remain through fall and winter for wind protection.

Another practical advantage of a winter windbreak is to serve as a snow fence. Accumulated snow is an additional source of water in areas where moisture is deficient. A heavy accumulation of snow in many areas provides adequate moisture for spring seeded vegetables. The snow also will protect parsnips stored in the ground over winter.